I'm taking part in Me-Made-May this year. It's a very exciting way to encourage you to wear your handmade clothes. This is my challenge: 3 items per week.
'I, Ana of http://mysewingside.blogspot.co.uk sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '15. I
endeavour to wear three hand-made garments each week for the duration of May
2015'
Many participants are able to wear something every single day, a real achievement. I think there's still a long way for me to manage that, so I'll start by trying to find three things, hopefully not repeating too much.
Monday, 27 April 2015
Thursday, 5 March 2015
Boatneck t-shirt
The easiest and therefore my first project to make use of the overlocker was a t-shirt. I had no actual pattern but used an old t-shirt to create one. It's a boatneck top, one of my favourite shapes. I was given a gem of a book (101 Sewing Secrets by Singer) that explains the rub-off technique, among many other tips. It consists of copying another garment by tracing a fairly accurate pattern by laying a transparent paper or muslin and transferring the seamlines. This method is a great way to recreate your favourites, especially when something fits perfectly.
The starting point is pen and paper, and a french curve is also really useful.
To create the pattern, you need to turn the t-shirt inside out and fold it in half and follow the seams or other marks. Once the outline is finished, the seam allowance needs to be added (see the darker mark on the pattern below).
Then to sew. I followed the instructions here. To briefly summarise, the first step is to join the front and back at the shoulders, and then the round part of the sleeve is attached. The next step is to create a single seam starting from the sleeve all the way down the side.
For the hem and the neck opening I used a twin or double needle, to mimic coverstitch. I found that just folding the seam allowance wasn't the strongest finishing, so I would add bias binding next time.
The starting point is pen and paper, and a french curve is also really useful.
To create the pattern, you need to turn the t-shirt inside out and fold it in half and follow the seams or other marks. Once the outline is finished, the seam allowance needs to be added (see the darker mark on the pattern below).
Then to sew. I followed the instructions here. To briefly summarise, the first step is to join the front and back at the shoulders, and then the round part of the sleeve is attached. The next step is to create a single seam starting from the sleeve all the way down the side.
For the hem and the neck opening I used a twin or double needle, to mimic coverstitch. I found that just folding the seam allowance wasn't the strongest finishing, so I would add bias binding next time.
As the two photos show below, the front and the back are identical. I only realised after finishing the t-shirt that it could do with a little label on the back.
Friday, 23 January 2015
My new overlocker
I got recently a birthday + Christmas present in the shape of an overlocker. Although I don't consider myself a particularly advanced sewer (yet), I had been thinking for a while about having a more polished finish in my clothes and using knit fabrics, which can only be achieved with the help of an overlocker.
My new friend is a Husqylock S15 (Husqvarna). It took me a while to decide, I spent ages comparing online; so many brands and prices are a bit mind-boggling. At first, I thought of a second hand one for about £70, but that's already a considerable expense without being able to see if it worked properly. Then I heard that certain German supermarket does occasional offers, and discovered that it is very similar to a well known brand, but on the cheap. I was mainly sceptical about the customer service for such a high cost item.
Eventually, I went to a local shop and they showed me a few different models but, being a beginner, I wasn't able to distinguish how the sound can give you a clue about its quality; all were noisy to me. I went for the least expensive. The lady was really nice and went through the threading patiently and made it so easy that I don't understand why it's feared so much.
To summarise, these are a few tips on how to choose an overlocker:
- Price?
I would recommend to buy the best you can afford. In terms of price, compared to a beginners sewing machine, mine cost £100, a decent overlocker is around £200. I ended up contributing to the purchase, as it was too much for such a small machine.
- New or second hand?
If possible, I would go for a new machine to avoid surprises, like missing parts. If it's only, say £50 it's too good to be true.
- Brand?
Some brands are actually part of the same company, e.g., Husqvarna, Pfaff and Singer, which manufacture in China, so they're probably going to have comparable quality (and a cover made of plastic).
- Shop?
Choose a shop that provides a brief tutorial about threading and can help you later on if something goes wrong.
- 2-3-4-5 threads?
Most do 2, 3 or 4 threads, which I think is sufficient. I felt a bit disappointed that from the many stitch options with 2, 3 or 4 threads, this overlocker doesn't do a coverstitch (two parallel lines), but there is the alternative of using twin needles in a normal sewing machine for finishing hems.
Finally, one important thing I've learned is that threading is easy. You just need to follow the diagram and get a good pair of long tweezers (to get into the nooks and cranies).
My new friend is a Husqylock S15 (Husqvarna). It took me a while to decide, I spent ages comparing online; so many brands and prices are a bit mind-boggling. At first, I thought of a second hand one for about £70, but that's already a considerable expense without being able to see if it worked properly. Then I heard that certain German supermarket does occasional offers, and discovered that it is very similar to a well known brand, but on the cheap. I was mainly sceptical about the customer service for such a high cost item.
Eventually, I went to a local shop and they showed me a few different models but, being a beginner, I wasn't able to distinguish how the sound can give you a clue about its quality; all were noisy to me. I went for the least expensive. The lady was really nice and went through the threading patiently and made it so easy that I don't understand why it's feared so much.
To summarise, these are a few tips on how to choose an overlocker:
- Price?
I would recommend to buy the best you can afford. In terms of price, compared to a beginners sewing machine, mine cost £100, a decent overlocker is around £200. I ended up contributing to the purchase, as it was too much for such a small machine.
If possible, I would go for a new machine to avoid surprises, like missing parts. If it's only, say £50 it's too good to be true.
Some brands are actually part of the same company, e.g., Husqvarna, Pfaff and Singer, which manufacture in China, so they're probably going to have comparable quality (and a cover made of plastic).
Choose a shop that provides a brief tutorial about threading and can help you later on if something goes wrong.
- Free arm?
Not essential; it's useful to remove the left part and it helps for sleeves or trousers, but you can always lift the garment and rotate it on the side.
Not essential; it's useful to remove the left part and it helps for sleeves or trousers, but you can always lift the garment and rotate it on the side.
- 2-3-4-5 threads?
Most do 2, 3 or 4 threads, which I think is sufficient. I felt a bit disappointed that from the many stitch options with 2, 3 or 4 threads, this overlocker doesn't do a coverstitch (two parallel lines), but there is the alternative of using twin needles in a normal sewing machine for finishing hems.
Finally, one important thing I've learned is that threading is easy. You just need to follow the diagram and get a good pair of long tweezers (to get into the nooks and cranies).
Tuesday, 25 November 2014
Shirt from Vogue 2634
This shirt is a quick version based on view d, sleeveless and without pockets, which I might add some day. I was looking for something that I could wear on a daily basis to work. I was getting a bit bored of the usual cheap stripy blouses.
This pattern was a bit tricky at times, for instance, how to sew the collar and the armholes facings without the aid of the detailed instructions found in beginner's books. When I cut the collar pieces, I had to trim them to avoid looking like Harry Hill (great comedian, by the way). This little adjustment caused me some confusion because nothing matched! I managed to fit them thanks to online videos and some unpicking.
The armholes diagram in the pattern wasn't that clear, the facings had to be attached and trimmed but then I wasn't sure how to go on to attach the remaining part, so there is a bit of puckering on the sides, which doesn't look that bad; it seems like gathering and is also partially hidden in the underarm area.
One of the things I feel most satisfied with is the buttonholes. It's something I've been putting off for a while but they are not that complicated at all; you just need a good practice, about half a dozen or so in a scrap of fabric and that's it. My sewing machine (Singer 8280) has three settings (two for the long vertical sides and one for the short horizontal ones at the bottom and top), so the only thing to adjust is the stitch length (how close together the stitches are). A great tip from the basics book I have is to open the buttonholes from the side towards the center to avoid cutting through the stitches. I then attached the buttons by hand, which were recycled from an old shirt.
As the pattern says, it's a loose fit, and once I put it on I found that I prefer to have darts, to give some shape. I'll try, though, other views with long sleeves, more useful for the winter, and possibly the long one (view a) in knit fabric for a sort of jacket to wear at home.
This pattern was a bit tricky at times, for instance, how to sew the collar and the armholes facings without the aid of the detailed instructions found in beginner's books. When I cut the collar pieces, I had to trim them to avoid looking like Harry Hill (great comedian, by the way). This little adjustment caused me some confusion because nothing matched! I managed to fit them thanks to online videos and some unpicking.
The armholes diagram in the pattern wasn't that clear, the facings had to be attached and trimmed but then I wasn't sure how to go on to attach the remaining part, so there is a bit of puckering on the sides, which doesn't look that bad; it seems like gathering and is also partially hidden in the underarm area.
One of the things I feel most satisfied with is the buttonholes. It's something I've been putting off for a while but they are not that complicated at all; you just need a good practice, about half a dozen or so in a scrap of fabric and that's it. My sewing machine (Singer 8280) has three settings (two for the long vertical sides and one for the short horizontal ones at the bottom and top), so the only thing to adjust is the stitch length (how close together the stitches are). A great tip from the basics book I have is to open the buttonholes from the side towards the center to avoid cutting through the stitches. I then attached the buttons by hand, which were recycled from an old shirt.
As the pattern says, it's a loose fit, and once I put it on I found that I prefer to have darts, to give some shape. I'll try, though, other views with long sleeves, more useful for the winter, and possibly the long one (view a) in knit fabric for a sort of jacket to wear at home.
Sunday, 19 October 2014
Sleeveless top from The Great British Sewing Bee
After having a look at reviews and comments in blogs, I decided to buy the book from the second series of The Great British Sewing Bee: 'Sew Your Own Wardrobe'. What convinced me was that instead of being a general book for beginners, it was focused on clothes and came with full patterns. No cushions, bags or curtains. I already have a brilliant book that covers all of them, 'Sewing machine basics' by Jane Bolsover.
I made the sleeveless top, really easy after a few tweaks. The pattern fits most sizes, but mine was so loose on the back that I had to narrow it quite a bit. I learned a trick that I might use next time. You can put a narrow elastic band in the hem that will keep it in place.
One little mishap was the fabric catching on feed dog, so it's better not to look too close at some of the threads. Thank goodness it has a busy pattern!
I made the sleeveless top, really easy after a few tweaks. The pattern fits most sizes, but mine was so loose on the back that I had to narrow it quite a bit. I learned a trick that I might use next time. You can put a narrow elastic band in the hem that will keep it in place.
One little mishap was the fabric catching on feed dog, so it's better not to look too close at some of the threads. Thank goodness it has a busy pattern!
Sunday, 31 August 2014
Anda dress (Burda)
The Anda dress was my first attempt at commercial patterns, I was looking for something really easy and getting it online as a PDF seemed fairly straightforward and cheaper than in paper. It's a sleeveless dress with a gathered waist, not complicated at all, but I struggled at times with the instructions.
The facing on the sleeves was not very clear to me, so after checking a few tutorials I ended up doing a bias binding that doesn't show on the outside, which looks almost professional. It's quite different from how I had attached it in the apron. Another thing that I'm not entirely sure about is the final shape of the sleeves, the front and back in the lower side are joined in a v-shape, rather than round, although it's not a major concern, as it's hardly noticeable under my arms.
The pattern fit is certainly wide, so there is not much point in spending time adapting it as long as the bust size is right. Finally, something I would change is the neck. I found it a bit narrow, just enough to get my head through.
The facing on the sleeves was not very clear to me, so after checking a few tutorials I ended up doing a bias binding that doesn't show on the outside, which looks almost professional. It's quite different from how I had attached it in the apron. Another thing that I'm not entirely sure about is the final shape of the sleeves, the front and back in the lower side are joined in a v-shape, rather than round, although it's not a major concern, as it's hardly noticeable under my arms.
Thursday, 8 May 2014
Drawstring trousers
These trousers look like pyjamas but that's maybe because I used a cheap cotton fabric instead of linen. I followed my approach of trying to minimise costs for the first go, and later I intend to do a proper linen version that can be worn in the summer.
The pockets need a bit of structure so they are reinforced with interfacing, what a difference this makes! One thing I skipped was the topstitching, the curve of the pocket looked so neat...
For the pattern adjustments, although I needed to combine different sizes, I decided that I would only try to fit my hips measurements and the drawstring would be enough to keep the trousers in place.
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