Jacket from Vogue V7975 (II)

Well, I've been making some progress and now the jacket has lining. I found a blue polyester fabric, a bit brighter than I had planned but the contrast is quite nice.

A couple of things I've learnt so far with this make: when finishing seams it's better to tidy the threads as you go along; if they're left to be done at the end, some threads can show on the right side, which can be really difficult to tidy when many seams are sewn together, e.g., around the armhole. The other thing I found helpful is to use white thread to mark the spot where seams need to match, like the pockets; in this thick dark fabric I couldn't use my purple vanishing ink pen.

The plan is now to complete the lining on the hem and sleeves and that's it.

Link to the previous post beginning a jacket - Vogue V7975

Beginning a jacket - Vogue V7975

I've started sewing a jacket but although the style is quite simple, inspired by the classic Chanel design, I think it might take a bit of time to complete. I'm trying not to feel overwhelmed by the task ahead so I've selected a cheap jersey fabric, although with a sort of boucle texture, sequins included. One thing I'm most excited about is that the jacket has lining, it might look like a pro.

So far, the length is slightly different in parts, but that can get fixed, as I'm not worried about shorten it if necessary. My next task is setting the sleeves, I hope I can ease them without much puckering.

Snack sack

I found this snack sack tutorial from Sew Can Do (link) a while ago but hadn't got round to completing it, probably too busy making t-shirts.

The tutorial is fairly straightforward, it consists of two cylinders, with the inner one made of waterproof material. In my case I could only find a standard white PVC. I chose a yellow ribbon to provide some contrast to the bag.

My intention is to make a few more as this is a good present for friends with small children but I suppose that it could also be used for storing little items or as a wash bag.

V-neck top

This is my second rub-off item, another t-shirt for a change. I used a different model this time, another old favourite, mainly because of a small detail. The sleeves are just above the elbow, so they are quite cosy when the weather is not too hot and, unlike 3/4 sleeves, they don't roll upwards, which can end up in a little mess under a cardigan.

I made a mock band hem, inspired by a book I bought recently on overlockers (The overlocker technique manual by Julia Hincks), which has many tips on different techniques. You make a sort of seam, through an s-shape fold, and it looks like a separate band of fabric has been attached to the hem.

The first step is to make the s-shape fold. Laying the fabric with the wrong side up, make a fold so that the wrong sides join. Then, with the right side up, make a fold joining both right sides.

 

The fold should have three layers of fabric, with the border of the fabric remaining on the edge. This edge is sewn with the overlocker. I lifted the blade to avoid cutting too much.

Once the new fold is opened, there you are, an easy way to add some variation to hems.

Shirt from Vogue 2634 (long sleeve version)

This is the second part of my shirt-making endeavours, but now with long sleeves. I made the version C, which has two patch pockets.

I used a very light viscose, it makes the shirt almost float. But it has its drawbacks: it is quite delicate so I did the edgestitching manually (moving the needle slowly by hand instead of using the foot pedal) around corners and in narrow areas on the collar and when stitching multiple layers to avoid breaking the thin needle.

It's noticeable how thin this fabric is around the buttonholes; they puckered a lot, although it's disguised thanks to the busy pattern. Next time, interfacing!

Me-Made-May'15

I'm taking part in Me-Made-May this year. It's a very exciting way to encourage you to wear your handmade clothes. This is my challenge: 3 items per week.

'I, Ana of http://mysewingside.blogspot.co.uk  sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '15. I endeavour to wear three hand-made garments each week for the duration of May 2015'

Many participants are able to wear something every single day, a real achievement. I think there's still a long way for me to manage that, so I'll start by trying to find three things, hopefully not repeating too much.

Boatneck t-shirt

The easiest and therefore my first project to make use of the overlocker was a t-shirt. I had no actual pattern but used an old t-shirt to create one. It's a boatneck top, one of my favourite shapes. I was given a gem of a book (101 Sewing Secrets by Singer) that explains the rub-off technique, among many other tips. It consists of copying another garment by tracing a fairly accurate pattern by laying a transparent paper or muslin and transferring the seamlines. This method is a great way to recreate your favourites, especially when something fits perfectly.

The starting point is pen and paper, and a french curve is also really useful.

To create the pattern, you need to turn the t-shirt inside out and fold it in half and follow the seams or other marks. Once the outline is finished, the seam allowance needs to be added (see the darker mark on the pattern below).

Then to sew. I followed the instructions here. To briefly summarise, the first step is to join the front and back at the shoulders, and then the round part of the sleeve is attached. The next step is to create a single seam starting from the sleeve all the way down the side.

For the hem and the neck opening I used a twin or double needle, to mimic coverstitch. I found that just folding the seam allowance wasn't the strongest finishing, so I would add bias binding next time.

As the two photos show below, the front and the back are identical. I only realised after finishing the t-shirt that it could do with a little label on the back.